Coleman Autosports

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Dry Sump Disassembly

Another "unknown" when I received 06 car was the condition of the Dry Sump. This design was used on the 2005 and 2006 Auburn FSAE cars and then retired, mostly due to weight and complexity. The pan, pumps, reservoir, and all lines add about 10 pounds to the car. To the best of my knowledge (Someone correct me if i'm wrong) the team has only experienced one dry sump failure. This was when the jet nut came off and was sucked into the scavenge pump thereby breaking the drive chain and ruining the pump. This design has a few benefits that help offset the weight a bit such as:

The engine never starves for oil when cornering or braking at high G's
The CG of the entire car can be lowered over an inch by dropping the engine as close to the ground as possible
The Auburn dry sump design packages the scavenge pumps inside the crankcase so any pump leakage is inconsequential and will not lead to a DNF
By employing a spur gear drive from the engine to scavenge pumps the pan can be easily removed from the car without having to disconnect a chain

Excellent Senior Design Dry Sump Project "PDF" by University of Michigan

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My current plan is to refurbish the 05-06 design dry sump and add the following improvements after the car is functional:

Re-design the plate that connects the fittings on the side of the pan. The O-rings do not seal well and leak. Currently I'm leaning toward bonding in the tubes and incorporating Wiggins Clamps on the ends (images below)

Re-Plumb the entire system

Move the dry sump reservoir from behind the drivers back to inside a nugget of space in the left rear A-arms

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Disassembly Photos

A New #25 chain is definitely on the list of things to order. This time without a master link

Rear Scavenge Line

Mounting wedge for rear scavenge line

The bottom right hole is where the oil is fed to the OE pressure pump
The channels on the top connect the scavenge pumps to the oil scavenge line on the side of the pan

The scavenge pump housings use the OE Honda georotor style pumps

Wheel Bearing Replacment

Front Hub After Pressing out Bearing

It appears retaining compound was used on the hub at some point

Spindle and Old Bearing

Front wheel bearing is a 2002 Ford Focus Rear.
OE Part Number YS4Z-1A049-AA
Timken Part Number 516007
About $40 at Parts Store

Rear Upright in Center

Rear Wheel Bearings are off the front of a 1982 VW Golf
Timken Part Number: "Set 35"
About $30 at Parts Store

The blue anodizing on the hubs was looking bad so I soda blasted the hubs and later polished them and painted the trigger wheels

Front Assembly

ARP 12-point Hardware

Final Assembly

Diff Mount and Frame Reinforcement

At some point between 2006 and 2013 holes were made in the frame to access the diff clevis nuts. They were likely cut with a dremel, an extreme eyesore, and possible fatigue point

Enlarged the holes and added rounds but this weakened the mount too much so a plate was in order

Cardboard template of reinforcement plate

Template imported into AutoCAD to add rounds and rosette weld locations

Reinforcement plate TIG welded on

Painted reinforcement plate on frame

Closeup

Before:

After:

Friday, January 17, 2014

Motor Inspection and Compression Test

After getting everything home the first order of business was to disassemble the car and make a list of parts to order. The two most expensive parts being the Motor and ECU. This post will describe my (mostly pleasant) findings after removing the 2002 CBR 600 F4i engine from the car.

Compresion Test:
(Spec is 178psi)